Behind the scenes…what’s in an oil? March 27, 2010

So, just what’s involved in making this stuff?  This post is pretty technical and some may find it boring, but for all you who really want to know, let’s begin…

1)  Quality of oils – not all oils are created equal, and not all oils are obtained equally.  When it comes to buying the oils I use in Return to Eden products, I look for the following:

• where’s it from – I like to get ingredients grown & made in the US when possible simply to reduce the carbon footprint due to shipping – of course, this is impossible with shea butter and several others, but some – beeswax, wheat germ oil, and sunflower oil for instance – are readily sourced in the US
• who harvests it, and are they paid a fair wage
• is it a sustainable oil AND is it harvested in a sustainable manner
• what’s the oil’s quality – how is it extracted (cold pressed or pressed [higher heat generation] or solvent/hexane extraction)?  is it refined?  if so, how?  is it certified organic?  if not, why?  what is the free fatty acid content (a measure of the oil’s rancidity – the lower the value the better) and anisidine value (again, a measure of it’s rancidity)?

You want to start off with oils that have low free fatty acid values and anisidine values – how the oil is extracted and refined plays a large role in these values – a lower extraction temperature better preserves an oil’s quality as the triglycerides in the oil have a smaller chance of breaking down into by-products that you don’t want.  Oils can also be extracted via solvents, typically hexane, and I don’t like this method of extraction.

Refinement of oils is NOT necessarily a bad thing.  For instance, many oils are steam refined to remove impurities that can lead to more rapid degradation and therefore a decreased product shelf life.

Cocoa butter & jojoba oil, along with a host of other oils and butters, may be steam refined to remove characteristic odors (i.e. the chocolate-y scent of cocoa butter).  However, too much refinement and certain types of refinement leaves you with an oil that has little to no benefits – for instance, hemp seed oil can be completely stripped of all of its nourishing chlorophyll through a refinement process – I want my hemp seed oil a deep, rich shade of green, which proves the chlorophyll is still in the oil. The same for my pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, and grape seed oil – they all have deep characteristic colors indicative of their chemical make-up – too much refining can leave them light yellow, an undesirable trait in these oils.

With refining, just as with extracting, it is important to avoid refining processes that utilize solvents such as hexanes.

Sunscreen FAQ January 28, 2010

I was planning to post a comprehensive blog on sunscreens and the information for and against their use and which ones are best to use. But, with the overwhelming amount of contradictory information available on sunscreens, I felt a blog post on the subject would add to the confusion rather than provide clarity. So, I decided to offer some general information on sunscreen instead and have included several links for you to visit for additional information.

1) What does SPF mean?

Let me say this first (and repeat it throughout) – SPF is only a measure of UVB protection and not UVA protection.

SPF or sun protection factor is determined by the difference in the amount of time it takes skin to burn (as determined by the erythema – redness of the skin) with sunscreen on vs. the amount of time it takes skin to burn when no sunscreen is worn. That being said, most sunscreens contain a combination of sunscreen ingredients to provide both UVA and UVB protection.

2) What is the difference between UVA and UVB?

UVA are also known as the aging UV rays. Their wavelength is 400–315 nm and these rays are more penetrating than UVB rays meaning they are not inhibited by atmospheric phenomena (i.e. clouds, particles, etc.) as much as UVB rays and therefore are more likely to reach the skin. These rays are the primary contributor to melanoma.

UVA does not cause direct DNA damage (as UVB does) but rather generates free radicals and reactive oxygen species and reactive carbonyl species – ROS and RCS, respectively that then cause cell and DNA damage.

UVB rays, also known as burning UV rays, have a wavelength from 315–290 nm. These rays are blocked from hitting the skin by clouds, glass (i.e. car windows), and do not penetrate as far into the skin as UVA rays. However, UVB rays can damage DNA and are responsible for sun burn and can lead to skin cancer (primarily basal and squamous cell carcinoma though UVA can also contribute to formation of these types of skin cancers along with UVB).

3) So, tell me more about UVA and UVB -

While we receive most of our yearly dosage of UVB during the summer (when the sun is more direct with our location), UVA is more evenly distributed throughout the year.

Approximately 80% to 90% of signs of aging are due to UV exposure. UV breaks down collagen and elastin in the skin, promotes formation of free radicals, and causes inflammation of the skin. Because the UVA rays actually penetrate to the dermis (the living layer of skin), the dermis is damaged as well as the epidermis when we’re exposed to UV.

4a) Anatomy of a sun tan -

The body is great at protecting itself. Its natural response to UVA rays is oxidation of existing melanin in the skin (melanin is a great antioxidant). UVB stimulates melanogenesis (production of more melanin) though the tan resulting from this generally takes a couple of days to develop not offering much protection in the mean time.

4b) Anatomy of a sunscreen -

There are two types of sunscreen agents – physical and chemical – this are just names – both groups are comprised of chemicals (don’t fret, despite their reputation, chemicals are NOT inherently bad – our bodies are composed of nothing but chemicals – water, DNA, hormones, the amino acids that form the peptides that form the proteins, vitamins are also chemicals), it’s just that the physical sunscreens protect your body from UV radiation by reflecting and scattering UV rays whereas chemical sunscreens work by reacting with the UV ray releasing lower energy things (i.e. heat, other chemicals, etc. – this is why folks complain that sunscreens make them hot).

So, a physical sunscreen simply reflects and scatters the UV rays and the chemical sunscreen in effect absorbs the UV rays in a chemical reaction releasing other compounds and heat in the process – though this sounds scary, just keep in mind, this chemical reaction is no different in nature than chemical reactions between antioxidants and oxidizing agents (example the chemical reaction of melanin and UVA rays wherein melanin is oxidized by the UVA rays).  Many chemical reactions take place within the body naturally on a daily basis.  So, don’t let this alarm you.

Now, I am not going to discuss nanoparticles in sunscreens or the results of the chemical reactions that occur from the use of SOME sunscreen agents because although I do have an opinion on the subject, it is based on the very limited amount of information I have had time to wade through.

If you want to learn more about sunscreens, I would suggest the Environmental Working Group site (link XVI below).

5) So, how about that tanning bed?

Um, no, no, no.

Tanning beds actually (apparently) rely on UVA rays much more so than UVB rays to give you that nice glow, so no. See the links below for more info.

6) What causes age spots?

Okay, so, this is an area where I’m still a little spotty (having not found a great explanation of this process to date), but here’s what I’ve been able to piecemeal together.

Cells called melanocytes, which reside in the lowest layer of the epidermis – the layer closest to the dermis – produce melanin in the skin. The melanin is then housed in a vesicle known as a melanosome and is transported to keratinocytes (cells which comprise ~95% of the epidermis). The keratinocytes are essentially dyed by the melanin. Now, there are several theories on age spots:

A) Melanocytes (the melanin producing cells) can be damaged by the sun causing overproduction or underproduction of melanin (leading to age spots or areas of hypopigmentation).

B) I have read (though I no longer have the link to this article and will have to update this post after finding it again) that keratinocytes containing melanin can actually migrate and clump together leaving areas of the skin hypopigmented and other areas hyperpigmented (age spots). I will post the link to this site after I have found it again.

C) As we grow older, the epidermis begins to thin allowing melanocytes to come closer and closer to the skins surface revealing age spots (this seems especially valid if A is also true).

7) So, what’s all the hoopla about antioxidants?

Antioxidants fight free radicals and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and Reactive Carbonyl Species (RCS) the destructive compounds produced by UV exposure.  So, whereas antioxidants do not protect from UV radiation (as does sunscreen agents), they do protect from the effects of UV radiation by destroying free radicals and ROS.  There is solid scientific evidence showing that anti-oxidants protect against erythema (redness induced from sunburn) and protect DNA from damage – see the link to the book excerpt (XIII below).

In addition to commonly recognized antioxidants – vitamins A, C, & E, green tea extract, rutin, acai extract, white tea extract, rooibos extract, ginkgo biloba extract, and coenzyme Q-10 – I also use the peptide, Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33 in a few products – Toujours Jeune Illuminating Light Day Cream and Toujours Jeune Radiant Face & Eye Cream Treatment.  Granted, the following images are from the manufacturers of this peptide, but they prove my point – that antioxidants can provide protection against UV induced damage:

Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33

This word document makes mention of the comet test or comet assay for indicating DNA damage – a link to the description of this assay is (XV) below.

Links:

I)    http://www.umm.edu/patiented/articles/what_causes_wrinkles_000021_1.htm great link on photoaging

II)   http://www.911skin.com/uvbubarays.html types of UV rays

III) http://www.skincancer.org/Understanding-UVA-and-UVB.html explanation of SPF factor

IV)  all right, I know Wiki articles are a lame thing to post as a reference, but I’m going to anyway -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun_tanning

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_cancer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanocyte

V)       http://dermatology.about.com/cs/beauty/a/suneffect.htm damaging effects of UV

VI)     http://www.agespots.net/causes.aspx causes of age spots

VII)  http://www.dermnet.org.nz/lesions/freckles.html skin pigmentation

VII)   http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/medical/IM01654 skin layers schematic

VIII) http://dermatology.about.com/cs/beauty/a/wrinklecause.htm skin and aging

IX)     http://ezinearticles.com/?Anatomy-of-the-Skin—The-Basis-for-Understanding-Aging-Lines-and-Wrinkles&id=1010021 aging skin

X)       http://www.nursingtimes.net/exploring-the-anatomy-and-physiology-of-ageing-part-11-the-skin/1944136.article causes of wrinkles

XI)     http://www.anti-aging-guide.co.uk/skin-care.html more info on skin and wrinkles

XII)   http://www.cosmeticscop.com/skin-care-facts-uva-uvb-sun-protection-antioxidants.aspx UV & antioxidants

XIII)  http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=1&ved=0CBEQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pharmpress.com%2Fshop%2Fsamples%2Fnutraceuticals_2ed_sample.pdf&rct=j&q=nutraceuticals%2C+skin+health%2C+ISBN+978+0+85369+659+9&ei=ir1gS8bxBpL8tAPl_JW7Cw&usg=AFQjCNFUjhzNyhh0zzmcikYGmxVb784txg&sig2=i06fj3dnZoqogW7Cf-uqbw book excerpt on antioxidants and their protection against free radicals and ROS

XIV)   http://ckl.cl/descargas/trabajos_clinicos/TRABAJO_JAAD_CE_June.pdf Vitamins C & E and protection against UV damage

XV)    http://www.comet-assay.de/cometintro.php DNA comet assay information

XVI)  http://www.ewg.org/whichsunscreensarebest/2009report

Nutraceuticals December 29, 2009

Here’s a link to a pdf file with information on Coenzyme Q-10, Soy Isoflavones, Grape Seed Proanthocyanidin, Tea Extract, and other oral & topical anti-oxidants.

Nutraceuticals.pdf

Green Tea Extract is included in all of our face creams and eye creams.  Coenzyme Q-10 is included in all of our face and eye creams in the Golden Standard line.  We are incorporating several of these other nutraceuticals in our newest line of face care:  Toujour Jeunes.

Balancing Act September 25, 2009

Okay, this post was interesting in my head before I got started, but with a tall order of trying to be as transparent as possible and convince folks Return to Eden Cosmetics is NOT like the competition, this post got a little lengthy (I kind of stepped on my small soap box in a couple of places).  I know it’s fairly technical and can be tedious at spots, but that’s just my style (those of you who have met me will most likely take it in stride).

‘

Let’s just take a look at a few commonly ingested things that are good in moderation – red wine, water, Vitamin A.  Too much of any of these can cause, respectively, alcohol poisoning, hyponatremia (aka water intoxication), and hypervitaminosis A.  All can lead to death, yet water and Vitamin A (and many would argue red wine) are also essential to life.  So, what gives?

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Well, I’m not here to bore you with an explanation (see, I haven’t yet slipped into tedious detail), so as we say in the south, it just be’s that way sometimes.

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Just as in food, most of the things you put on your skin also need to be used in moderation.  What could possibly go wrong if not?

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Here are a few examples:

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Vitamin A is marvelous for the skin.  It clears up acne (tretinoin aka trans-retinoic acid aka retin-A is an active form–you can think of it as a concentrated form of Vitamin A but we all know it has side effects–skin peeling, redness, can cause photosensitivity).  Vitamin A also helps even skin tone, boosts collagen synthesis, and overall gives that clear and even complexion all of us girls dream about (at least I don’t think I’m alone).  But, too much Vitamin A can cause thinning of the skin and if used in too high of a concentration during the day can cause photosensitivity most commonly seen as redness of the skin.

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And, here’s one that will make you go running into the middle of the street waving your hands (especially when you consider what this means for PUFAs in the diet, but let’s not go there, well, maybe in a future blog post).  We’ve all been told that oils high in PolyUnsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs) are good for our skin when applied and good for our body when ingested.  It’s an almost irrefutable fact that PUFAs are good for the skin, but once again, too high a concentration of PUFAs can CAUSE oxidation rather than PREVENT it as all the claims say.

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So, what’s a girl to do?  Buy products from a transparent company.  Don’t trust the hype, trust the science.  MUCH easier said than done, especially with so much contradictory information.

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As consumers, we are all bombarded with marketing tricks on a daily basis.  With larger companies, we are trusting that they will be honest with us and that when they claim “natural” they are really being sincere.  The problem is, when I pick up a product from the majority of large companies using the marketing guise of “natural” and “good for you” products, I typically see less than 50% of the ingredients listed are really natural or even derived from vegetable material (I know petrochemicals such as oil are also technically natural, but I don’t consider ANY oil derivatives as natural in my body care products or my diet).

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With smaller companies, we are trusting that the folks making the products really know what they’re doing.  Most of the time, this isn’t necessarily true.

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Companies that don’t take the necessary precautions to know and understand the quality of their oils when they buy them (by receiving and analyzing the Certificate of Analysis which provides information on the peroxide value and p-anisidine value–another indicator of oil quality and the concentration of oxidants present in the oil) and the time to discern how much of a given oil to use in a formula (by evaluating the fatty acid composition of the oil and designing the formula to limit the PUFA concentration AND properly protect the PUFAs present in a formula using appropriate oil-soluble anti-oxidants) often wind up marketing a product that isn’t necessarily good for you and may actually lead to oxidation (primary cause of aging) rather than prevent oxidation.

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So, what can you, as the consumer, do to ensure you’re buying products that actually protect and nourish the skin?  Well, it’s going to take a bit of time on your part, but if you’re serious about this (and you should be because you only get one body to look at every day for the rest of your life and to live in for better or for worse–no divorces here–every day for the rest of your life), you should do the following.

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Whether you’re buying from large brand names, small brand names, or fledgling brand names, shop around well before you need the product.  Carry around a pen and paper (you never know when you’ll need it).  Read the ingredients list.  Write down the names of weird sounding ingredients.

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Just because an ingredient sounds weird doesn’t mean it’s bad for you (sodium stearoyl lactylate for example sounds weird, but it’s used in food as an emulsifying agent and is derived from vegetable matter).

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Look up the ingredients online, and check for the following:

1)  see what the ingredient is derived from (this is important as you will quickly learn what’s made from petrochemicals and what’s made from vegetable matter)

2)  note if it is contraindicated for acne

3) and make sure it does NOT release formaldehyde.

If you’re buying something such as blush, eyeshadow, lipstick, or foundation, I highly recommend using products that contain mica, titanium dioxide, and iron oxides ONLY as coloring agents (in other words, avoid any FD&C coloring agents–I also recommend avoiding FD&C coloring agents in food at all costs though this is nigh impossible–my favorite canned chili peppers have FD&C coloring agents in them, and I’m not about to start canning my own chili peppers, well, not yet anyway).

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If you are having trouble sleeping tonight or just want more information, below is a research paper discussing PUFAs.  The key points of this article are the graphs showing concentrations of linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated fatty acid with 2 degrees of unsaturation) and linolenic acid (a polyunsaturated fatty acid with 3 degrees of unsaturation) and the rates of peroxidation.  The rate of peroxidation is given in peroxide value increases per hour.  You can see that at concentrations above ~4% for each PUFA, the rate of peroxidation steadily increases.

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Peroxidation of PUFAs When you click on this link, please delete the www.returntoedencosmetics.wordpress.com/ part of it to make it load correctly (sorry, I’m not yet savvy enough to make it upload the correct link on its own)